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Fabrication Articles and Videos


Master the bread-and-butter skills of jewelry making. Our Fabrication section offers tutorials on all the essential tools and techniques.

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Diamond Color Scales, Charts and Ratings: All You Need to Know

Diamond Color Scales, Charts and Ratings: All You Need to Know

When it comes to diamonds, it is hard to pick the right one. There are different diamonds to choose from....
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How to Polish Stones, Gems, and Diamonds the Right Way

How to Polish Stones, Gems, and Diamonds the Right Way

How do you clean your jewellery? Doing it yourself isn’t the answer. Nor is using an improper technique that can...
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Ring Size Charts, Conversions, and Sizing it Right the 1st time

Ring Sizing Chart Ring Size 4.00 4.50 5.00 5.50 6.00 6.50 7.00 7.50 8.00 8.50 9.00 9.50 10.00 10.50 11.00...
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Birthstones: Which one are you and what does it mean?

Birthstones: Which one are you and what does it mean?

Birth stones are stones associated with each person's month of birth. Each month has a different stone associated with it,...
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How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire

How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire

Working with silver jewelry wire is an essential skill for most jewelers. Learn the meaning of terms such as gauge,...
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2006 February Book Reviews

Contemporary Enameling - Art and Techniques by Lilyan Bachrach 256 pp., 550 color photos, 8-1/2" x 1 1" hard cover....
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Metalsmith Summer Programs 1984

Metalsmith Summer Programs 1984

This is our fourth annual summer workshop listing of courses in metalsmithing, jewelry and related fields. As we go to...
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Lois Etherington Betteridge

Lois Etherington Betteridge

Lois Etherington Betteridge Museum of Natural Sciences, Ottawa June-September, 1983 Yaneff Gallery, Toronto November, 1983 The silver objects of Lois...
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Fourth Annual Selected University Metalsmiths

Fourth Annual Selected University Metalsmiths

Fourth Annual Selected University Metalsmiths Norman R. Eppink Art Gallery, Emporia State University, Emporia, KS October 24- November 11, 1983...
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Mary Ann Scherr

Mary Ann Scherr

Machines have always fascinated Mary Ann Scherr – first the drill press, bandsaw and oxyacetylene torch, and now the computer;...
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Ashante Casting

Ashante Casting

In 1965, while visiting near Kumasi in Ghana, Max Frohlich first saw the process of Ashante casting. At the time...
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Lisa Norton

Lisa Norton

While Lisa Norton’s works give evidence to her interest in the concepts of value, utility, function, form and the cultural...
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The Meaningful Significance

The Meaningful Significance

In a recent Metalsmith article entitled "The Future Perfect: Activism and Advocacy" (Spring, 1994), Kathleen Browne offered some thought provoking...
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Ellen Kochansky: Along the Way

Ellen Kochansky: Along the Way

For someone who began making jewelry in high school and who usually makes work no larger than two feet, working...
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66 Enamels in a California Show

66 Enamels in a California Show

The Northern California Enameling Guild ("NCEG") and the ACCI Gallery recently sponsored an excellent show of works from around the...
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Book Review Camille Faure

Book Review Camille Faure

Camille Fauré: Impossible Objects Cork Marcheschi lSBN 615-13229-4 172 pages; full color; 11 x 9 inches This book demands to...
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Glass on Metal 2008 December Book Review

Glass on Metal 2008 December Book Review

The Little Book of Water Etching and Enameling for Metal Clay Etching with water? This may sound strange until you...
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Glass on Metal 2008 Book Review

Glass on Metal 2008 Book Review

Painted Enamels - An Illustrated Survey 1500-1920 by Erika Speel Published by Lund Humphries, Hampshire, England, 2008 Hard cover, 10-3/4"...
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Nine Lively Ladies

Nine Lively Ladies

We are a group of artists who call ourselves "Nine Lively Ladies." A year ago, I had to come up...
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A Book Review August 2009

A Book Review August 2009

This handsomely presented volume has an initial chapter tided 'An English Goldsmith's Work History, and over 140 of the 158...
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The Creation of The Quickening

The Creation of The Quickening

In the early 1980’s, I made a drawing based on the theme of transformation, a sudden, intuitive grasp of reality...
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Sansone Studio

Sansone Studio

Sometime around 1989 or 1990, I got a call from a friend, Steve Kissler, who owned a small gift shop...
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Platinum Design Competition

Platinum Design Competition

This year Johnson Matthey Inc., the world’s largest manufacturer of platinum group metals, in cooperation with the Society of North...
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Anodizing Update

Anodizing Update

Bill Seeley is an independent metalsmith with an M.F.A. from the University of Kansas in metals, particularly titanium. He is...
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Settin’ Pretty

Settin’ Pretty

Ask any experienced jeweler, and they’ll tell you: it takes stones to become a gem setter. You literally have to...
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Large Cloisonne Wall Pieces on Copper

I have worked in cloisonné on large-scale wall hangings and site-specific installations for public spaces. My work ranges from 8"...
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Layering Over Sgraffitoed Liquid

I make light switch covers that are site-specific functional fine art and sculptural vessels that are not at all functional....
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Colorit: Tips for Beautiful Color Details

Colorit: Tips for Beautiful Color Details

The exceptional colors of the Colorit range manufactured by Inovis in Schaan, Liechtenstein has enabled innovative goldsmiths to explore new...
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Living Design

In his book "For Common Things", the American author Jedediah Purdy foretells the end of the fun society. It is...
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10th Brazil Gem Show: Back to the Source

10th Brazil Gem Show: Back to the Source

The 10th Brazil Gem Show was, in many respects, a show reborn. Held March 15-18 in Governador Valadares, Brazil, the...
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Telling Pearl’s Story

Telling Pearl’s Story

Pearl jewelry has come a long way from the days of grandmother’s proverbial strand of round pearls. In today’s retail...
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China’s Treasure Island

China’s Treasure Island

Golden, white, and rose-colored pearls of dubious quality dangle from her outstretched arms. At least 20 more strands are draped...
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Book Review 2003 August

Book Review 2003 August

Enameling Art Live by Toshiko Tanaka The World of Modern Enamel Murals 89 pages; soft, glossy covers; 172 full color...
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Tooling Around

Tooling Around

A look at a few jewelers who refuse to use tools the way they were designed Jewelers love their tools…but...
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Akenfield: Metal and Paper

“It was a fine thing for me to have something lying on the bench before me made by one of...
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Issues Fall 1983

Craft and commerce came together with spirit and style at the 1983 Society of North American Goldsmiths' conference held at...
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Tips for Avoiding Meltdown

Tips for Avoiding Meltdown

Now What? You’ve carved a few waxes or made a piece in metal that you want to mold and have...
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The Check Is in the Mail

The Check Is in the Mail

Pay your idea bank regularly to keep your business thriving   We have a goofy tradition in our family in...
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Jewelry Metal Trends for 2016

Jewelry Metal Trends for 2016

Discover the top jewelry trends in gold, silver, and platinum—and what you can expect to see in the metals markets...
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Shipshape Shop

Equipment maintenance guidelines     Editor’s Note:   You pride yourself on your pristine shop. Your equipment is laid out...
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Single File

Single File

A step-by-step guide to single-row pavé settings   Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set...
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When the Dust Settles

Tips for recovering precious metal particles Most jewelers know how to handle their precious metal scraps: they separate their scraps...
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Blown Away

Blown Away

Creating a homemade blowgun As a jeweler and diamond setter, I get asked all types of questions. Recently, a customer...
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Functional Designs

Functional Designs

Designers showcase components as the focus of their designs When most folks think of findings, they’re likely to think of...
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Iolite Lode

Iolite Lode

The tiny state of Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil, has long stood in the shadow of the neighboring state of...
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Online Purchases on Gemstones

Online Purchases on Gemstones

Not so long ago, it was considered impossible that any product, let alone high-end jewelry and gemstones, could be sold...
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2007 Complex Individualism

2007 Complex Individualism

True, predicting the color of fashion is not an exact science like meteorology. But since the mid-1970s, professional color forecasters...
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Tahitian Pearl: In The Black

Tahitian Pearl: In The Black

It seems as though the Tahitians were granted their wish: Tahitian pearl supply is down, and prices are up. Strict...
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Tone Down, Dress Up

Tone Down, Dress Up

This year’s fall and winter fashions are decidely subdued. The necklaces worn at Anna Sui’s Fall 2006 show reflect the...
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Intergem 2007

Intergem 2007

INTERGEM Idar-Oberstein 5 to 8 October 2007 The most important international trade fair for gemstones Trade visitors should firmly schedule...
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E.U. Expands Gem Buying

E.U. Expands Gem Buying

The European Union’s gemstone imports were up a solid 7.5 percent to €412.5 million (US$544.4 million) in 2006, mostly on...
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ICA Eyes Dubai

ICA Eyes Dubai

The 12th biennial International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) Congress, held May 6-9 at the Al Murooj Rotana Hotel & Suites...
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Himalayan Ruby Hunt

Himalayan Ruby Hunt

In February 2006, some unusual rubies began to appear in the gem market in Bangkok, Thailand. They were both attractive...
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Unreliable Fruit

Unreliable Fruit

The gemstone dealers in Ban Lung, the dusty capital of Ratanakiri province, Cambodia, work in a ramshackle group of storefronts...
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Marking Your Turf

Marking Your Turf

Given the competitive climate of the jewelry industry, copyrights and trademarks are important ways for manufacturers and retailers to set...
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Architectural Dreams

Architectural Dreams

As the saying goes, it took James Kaya almost two decades to become an overnight sensation. The Boston-based jewelry designer...
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The Once and Future Sapphire

The Once and Future Sapphire

Andranondambo countryside, southern Madagascar, 1994 Imagine a gently hilled plain, covered with a beautiful baobab forest, surrounded by an arc...
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Yang Renping: Barely Breathing

Yang Renping: Barely Breathing

The stories are undeniably heartbreaking. Yang Renping, 41 of two children, coughs continuously and walks only weakly. He’s suffering from...
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Heard in Basel

Heard in Basel

The World Watch and Jewellery Show in Basel, Switzerland — also known as Baselworld — closed with a record high...
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Bead Jewelry

Bead Jewelry

Google the words “bead jewelry,” and page after page of Web sites pop up, vying for attention. With the explosion...
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Prix Golay 2006: Winner’s Circle

Prix Golay 2006: Winner’s Circle

Prix Golay 2006 The "cultured" pearl served as this year's theme for the Prix Golay, as participants used a South...
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One Last Idea Blow It Out Your Flask

One Last Idea Blow It Out Your Flask

Anyone who has cast 3-D printed photopolymer resins will tell you: They don’t cast like wax. One of the problems...
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Creating Accessory to Secure Tiny Settings

Creating Accessory to Secure Tiny Settings

Sometimes, holding on to really little parts is the greatest challenge of my day. I use tiny cabochons almost daily...
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Guide to Fishtail Settings

Guide to Fishtail Settings

One of the most popular setting styles today, fishtail settings are one of the few setting methods that show off...
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Techniques for Popular Finishing Touches

Techniques for Popular Finishing Touches

Precious metals are beautiful on their own, from the rich glow of yellow gold to the dense white of platinum—and...
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Changing Rules

Changing Rules

Let’s begin with the efforts to change the FTC regulations. Recently, the New York City–based Richline Group and the International...
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AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Winners Announced

AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Winners Announced

People & Places AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Winners Announced Honoring excellence in colored gemstone jewelry design, the American Gem...
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New Products 2017 October

New Products 2017 October

New Products Fretz Annealing Pans Constructed in cast iron to provide steady, even heat, the Fretz annealing pans were designed...
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2017 Editors Choice Winners

2017 Editors Choice Winners

International Jewellery London (IJL) recently announced the names of its three Editors’ Choice winners for 2017. Chosen for their creative...
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Nanz Aalund: A Helping Hand

Nanz Aalund’s career has been far-ranging. An award-winning jewelry artist based in Poulsbo, Washington, she’s taught jewelry and metals classes...
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Application of Hot Smithing Process to Non-Ferrous Metals

Application of Hot Smithing Process to Non-Ferrous Metals

The motivation for undertaking this research was to establish a more expedient process to achieve volumetric forms in non-ferreous metals....
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Portable Polishing

Portable Polishing

Making your own custom finishing sticks Due to space restrictions, I don’t own a full-size polishing machine. Because I work...
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Studio Beyond Walls June 2010

Studio Beyond Walls June 2010

The show season had come and gone. With my kids still in school, I was unable to participate in the...
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European Notebook 1994 Spring

European Notebook 1994 Spring

For your European correspondent it was Christmas in Brighton and then New Years in Paris – which is not the...
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European Notebook 1993 Fall

European Notebook 1993 Fall

The time of seasonal migration is upon the Continent. I am speaking of course of the mass movement of many...
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Book Reviews Feb 2005

Book Reviews Feb 2005

The Art of Enameling; Techniques, Projects, Inspiration by Linda Darty Lark Books, a division of Sterling Publishing Co. 2004; ISBN...
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Enameled Glass Bowls

Enameled Glass Bowls

It was during one of my exhibitions in Den Haag, Netherlands, that a visitor came up to me to ask...
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Larissa Podgoretz

Larissa Podgoretz

I was introduced to enameling during a required Enamels course at the Bezalel Academy Jewelry Department. We were given an...
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Book Review April 2004

Book Review April 2004

This recently published 64-page small format book gives an overview of the jewellery and luxury objects that comprise the collection...
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Making Overglaze Enamels

Making Overglaze Enamels

Overglaze enamels, as their name implies, are made to be applied over other enamels. They act much like paints or...
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1994 SNAG Conference

1994 SNAG Conference

SNAG '94 was a patchwork of voices. The conference theme, "Transformations: Personal Artistic Evolution", was dedicated to the individual creative...
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Christian Bauer: Wedding Rings

Christian Bauer: Wedding Rings

Christian Bauer is one of the major global players in the wedding ring business. The hightech smith from Welzheim near...
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GZ Art+Design Spots 2008 2

GZ Art+Design Spots 2008 2

Success in Silver Even as a child, he wanted to be an artist - today he is an internationally renowned...
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Ruff Collars From Status Symbol to Sculpture

Ruff Collars From Status Symbol to Sculpture

The very idea of wearing a 15 meter long, perfectly folded and starched collar is virtually inconceivable today. Yet these...
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Tibet Monasteries are Opening Treasure Chambers

Tibet Monasteries are Opening Treasure Chambers

In the middle of March, the spiritual leader of the Tibetans, the Dalai Lama, described the Chinese response to the...
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Fair Trade Promises Luxury

Fair Trade Promises Luxury

Gold, silver, platinum and gem stones are increasingly getting a bad name. Environmental catastrophes, financing of criminal syndicates or warlords...
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Ossa-Sepia Casting

Ossa-Sepia Casting

Ossa-Sepia casting is a ‘lost form of casting’ as the moulds can only be used one time. This makes each...
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Of Divine Blood

Of Divine Blood

Corals are precious treasures found in clear waters. This natural material has been used in jewelry making for thousands of...
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Klaus Dupont: Joyous Compositions

Klaus Dupont: Joyous Compositions

The artist Klaus Dupont transforms old finds into new objects – seldom have these old pieces been more cheerfully staged...
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Artistically Folded

Artistically Folded

Wrinkles may be undesirable on the face, yet folds are present in many different forms in art. Folds are created...
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Fritz Maierhofer: Message on the Issues

Fritz Maierhofer: Message on the Issues

Vienna-based jewelry designer Fritz Maierhofer is an important pioneer of modern individualized jewelry. As a protagonist of a new style...
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Luxury Brands: The Stuff of Dreams

Luxury Brands: The Stuff of Dreams

What do space travel, airplane construction and the car industry have in common? They all influence watch-making. Luxury brands like...
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The Moonlight Shimmers

The Moonlight Shimmers

Since antiquity, artists have been fascinated with the unique characteristics of silver. It shimmers as white as the moonlight, is...
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Global Village of the Design Elite

Global Village of the Design Elite

At the 17th JCK Show in Las Vegas (May 30 – June 3) the elite of the international jewelry scene...
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Non-Dogmatic Approach: Imagine the Opposite

Non-Dogmatic Approach: Imagine the Opposite

What an anniversary celebration: in 2008, the Munich Academy of Fine Arts celebrates its 200 year anniversary. The class for...
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The Ideal Solution

The Ideal Solution

“The third generation of the tried and trusted PUK welders, the PUK 3, has been a great success worldwide,” says...
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Merged Competence

Merged Competence

Five designers, five different approaches in the perception of jewelry, five creative providers of ideas: this is the design group...
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Roland DG: The Perfect Wax Model

Roland DG: The Perfect Wax Model

Roland DG Corporation is making high-tech available to jewellery designers and goldsmiths with its JWX-30. They too now have access...
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Jacek Ostrowski Introduces a New Design

Jacek Ostrowski Introduces a New Design

Jacek Ostrowski is a graduate of the Faculty for Design at the Technical College in Koszalin (Poland). He created his...
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European Design Institute

European Design Institute

This Istituto Europeo di Design (European Design Institute) isn’t just another school: it’s an international network of concentrated activities linked...
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