Fabrication


Add chain maille techniques to your jewelry making repertoire. Our videos will show you how to weave wires, link chains, and start various projects.

HomeFabrication
Gerry Lewy Video F – Bead Setting

Gerry Lewy Video F – Bead Setting

Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you the technique of bead setting...
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Gerry Lewy Video E – Princess Setting Round Claws – V Shaped Claws – Wedding band

Gerry Lewy Video E – Princess Setting Round Claws – V Shaped Claws – Wedding band

Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set a diamond...
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Fishtail Setting Tutorial

Fishtail Setting Tutorial

Master diamond setter Gerry Lewy shows dying art of making a fish tail setting. Made completely by hand, this is...
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Gerry Lewy Video B – Setting a Solitaire – 4 Prong – 6 Prong

Gerry Lewy Video B – Setting a Solitaire – 4 Prong – 6 Prong

Drawing on 40+ years of experience, Gerry Lewy shows you how to set a diamond in 4-prong and 6-prong solitaire...
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Gerry Lewy Video C – Bezel Setting – Channel Setting

Gerry Lewy Video C – Bezel Setting – Channel Setting

Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set a diamond...
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Gerry Lewy Video A – Intro – Tool Modification – Skills

Gerry Lewy Video A – Intro – Tool Modification – Skills

Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to modify simple, everyday,...
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Gerry Lewy Video D – Cluster Setting – Flush Setting

Gerry Lewy Video D – Cluster Setting – Flush Setting

Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set gems in...
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How to Repair a Hollow Rope Chain

How to Repair a Hollow Rope Chain

I took in a broken hollow rope chain bracelet for repair this week. The bracelet had caught on a desk...
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The Best Flux For Soldering Jewelry: How To Choose The Right One For Your Project

Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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How to Create a Basic Link Chain

How to Create a Basic Link Chain

Making a simple or basic link chain to display your pendant designs is a great way to add further value...
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Dealing with Fire Scale

Fire scale or fire stain is a reddish purple toned 'bloom' or 'stain' that appears on silver/copper alloys such as...
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A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword

A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword

Considered to be one of the richest and most important archaeological finds in Great Britain, the Ship Burial known as...
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Understanding the Working Titanium

Because titanium behaves somewhat differently than the standard metals in the goldsmith's workshop some special attention to its working is...
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Hydraulic Die Forming for the Artist/Metalsmith

Hydraulic Die Forming for the Artist/Metalsmith

Hydraulic die forming is a process which hasn't received a lot of press. Perhaps its usefulness seems limited to mass...
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Platinum Durability vs Scratching

There is a major difference between durability and scratch resistance. Platinum is very durable. When scratched, the scratch actually displaces...
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Platinum Jewelry Advanced Joining Techniques

Joining is a very important production technique in the field of jewelry production. Therefore it is useful to know, what...
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Damascus and Pattern Welding

Damascus and Pattern Welding

True damascus steel is made by a casting process utilizing very high carbon steel. The material is held at or...
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Goldsmithing: Pitch Options

Pitch is used all over the world by goldsmiths and silversmiths to hold metal in place while working it with...
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Welding Aluminum for Successful Anodizing

Welding Aluminum for Successful Anodizing

This article includes descriptions of dangerous activities. These descriptions are not to be deemed instruction, any inference to the contrary...
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Solder Flow Retardant Notes

While goldsmiths normally strive to have their solder flow easily, there are times you don't want it to flow, such...
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Laser Welding Replacing Soldering

When first starting to work with the laser welders, operators should experiment with five or six different alloys commonly used....
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 1

Granulation is the process of fusing tiny metal spheres of silver or gold, in a decorative pattern, to a surface...
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Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings

Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings

When I ran a trade shop, time was money, and I often found myself sizing 50 to 60 rings in...
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De-oxidized Sterling Silver Alloys

De-oxidized Sterling Silver Alloys

Sterling silver alloys typically contain about 7.5 percent copper, an addition that not only provides strength to the otherwise pure...
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Reticulation of Shakudo and Shibuichi

Reticulation of Shakudo and Shibuichi

For a number of years I have been exploring the use of the Japanese alloy shakudo in ways other than...
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Working with Platinum & Platinum Designing

My skills as an artist combined with my years of experience at the bench have given me a practical approach...
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Scoring and Bending

Scoring and bending is one of the most important ways of constructing jewellery. Scoring is a method of obtaining very...
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How to Resize Platinum Rings

This article offers instructions on how to resize platinum rings whether for a size smaller or bigger, as well as,...
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Re-tipping Platinum Prongs

Platinum is a very durable metal, so prongs will last a long time. However, it is sometimes necessary to re-tip...
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Securing Curved Stones for Easy Drilling

Securing Curved Stones for Easy Drilling

Securing curved stones when drilling can be a bit difficult. I use recycled ceramic china, beach pebbles, sea and river...
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Methods of Closing Jump Rings

In high volume production operations, many jump rings need to be closed one after another. For such fast paced operations,...
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Chain Making Project

This project is for beginners that wish to become silversmiths, part time or full time. Keep in mind that there...
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Laser Welding Sterling Silver

In laser welding of Sterling Silver ' lower silver bearing alloys (coin silver) we have about seven choices in laser...
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Safety Notes for Jewelers on Pitch, Chasing and Repousse

An ancient system of working metals, this procedure uses steel punches to manipulate the metal while it is fixed onto...
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Repairing Broken Chains

The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine wires. These wires...
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Claire Falkenstein: Never-Ending Universe

Claire Falkenstein: Never-Ending Universe

Claire Falkenstein is a master of linear metal sculpture. Hers is not an art of solid form, as relating to...
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Palladium Q&As

Its no secret that palladium has captured the attention of the industry. In 2005, purchase of palladium for jewelry use...
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Chain & Findings

Chain & Findings

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Plique-a-Jour Russian Soldering Method

There are a number of methods for plique a jour, a filigree technique that allows light to shine through the...
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Multi-Metal Lamination

Multi-metal Lamination is a type of 'faux' married metal which produces a freer, more 'painterly' effect than the hard-edge, highly...
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Profitable Jewelry Design and Repair

A few years ago, Jewelers Circular Magazine reported that over 75% of all retail jewelers in America lose money on...
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Rendering Design and Process

Rendering Design and Process

This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal...
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Ornamental Chasing and Repousse

Working on the front of the piece only is called chasing. Repousse is the combination of tracing the design on...
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Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire

Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire

Mary Lee Mary Lee Hu has worked with wire - looping, wrapping, weaving and most notably twining—for the past 22...
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Roll Printing Technique

Roll Printing Technique

Roll printing, or texture transfer, has been around a long time. The ancient Greeks and Romans used various dies and,...
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Master Metalsmith Alan Adler

Master Metalsmith Alan Adler

I first discovered Allan Adler's Silversmithing Shop about 23 years ago when I arrived in Southern California to begin my...
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Fabricating a Crown to Fit a Stone

Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the...
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Platinum Fabricating & Stamping

This paper is aimed mainly at the small- to medium-sized jewelry manufacturing operations interested in working with platinum group metals....
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Fusion Patterns

Fusion Patterns

This paper describes a process that combines techniques researched by others with a few well known facts about the properties...
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North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, etc.

This page offers a list of some useful North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, information, etc that would be very...
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How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire

How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire

Working with silver jewelry wire is an essential skill for most jewelers. Learn the meaning of terms such as gauge,...
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Benchtop Hydroflux Welders

Connections are an important part of jewelry manufacturing. We make them with suppliers, with retailers, even with the people who...
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Firescale Prevention During Vacuum Casting

Firescale has been the scourge of sterling silver casters since the first silver was poured into a mold. It has...
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Using Non-Jeweler’s Tools For Fabrication: How To Repurpose Painting Blades For Bezels

Using Non-Jeweler’s Tools For Fabrication: How To Repurpose Painting Blades For Bezels

Helen I. Driggs demonstrates how some non-jewelers tools give fabrication a new twist. My background is in graphic design, so...
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Laser Welding Basics – Part 2

In my last article I wrote about the various adjustable parameters, and the effects of changing those parameters. In this...
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How to Mount Objects in Metal Frames

How to Mount Objects in Metal Frames

For the illusion of "floating objects" Helen I. Driggs shares her technique, a step by step guide, on how to...
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Contemporary Applications of Area Inlay

Contemporary Applications of Area Inlay

The use of area inlay, called damascening or woven inlay, is common in the ancient metalwork of Iran, India, Japan,...
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Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity

Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity

Richard Reinhardt's best-known pieces today are silver bracelets, constructed in concave or convex forms that curve smoothly and logically in...
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Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel

Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel

For this demonstration of Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel I will be setting a large emerald...
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How to Make Sharp Corner Cuts

Sawing is an essential skill for a bench jeweler. This article will show you a technique that will increase your...
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 2

Granulation involves placing and fusing tiny balls of silver on the surface of the backsheet in a preplanned design. The...
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Tricks for Hollow Rings with Miniature Stakes

Make the inner band the desired size first. 18 or 20 gauge is about right. Next make the bezel or...
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American Holloware Changing Criteria

American Holloware Changing Criteria

The expressions which have come to identify the pre- and post-World War II generations - Me decade, suburban frontiersmen, spoiled...
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Tackling Chain and Finding Repair

Tackling Chain and Finding Repair

Ask most jewelers about repairing a chain or finding and they’re likely to offer you their best Charlie Brown impression:...
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Flat Topped Solitaire Setting

Flat Topped Solitaire Setting

The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard...
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Susan Hamlet: Culture Of Materials

Susan Hamlet: Culture Of Materials

"Culture of materials," an expression originating from the early 20th-century teaching of Russian Constructivist Vladimir Tatlin, defines the artist's deliberate...
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Special Repair Work

It is not uncommon for moving parts to wear out. This is to be expected because of increased friction as...
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Fabricating a Free Form Opal Pendant

Fabricating a Free Form Opal Pendant

I received this opal from a woman who had cut it years ago. Her customer was aware it had a...
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Hiroko Sato Pijanowski – Artistic Research Into Spiritual Expression

Hiroko Sato Pijanowski – Artistic Research Into Spiritual Expression

Creativity is problem-solving, a skill based on the conscious and/or unconscious recombination and juxtaposition of information derived from diverse sources...
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Toolmaker’s Tools of the Trade

Toolmaker’s Tools of the Trade

The word "technology" is defined as the totality of the means employed to provide the objects necessary for sustenance and...
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The New MJSA/WGC White Gold Color Index

Have you ever noticed how white gold varies in color? Many folks think white gold is the same color as...
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Chain Repair Paste Solder Method

Repairing broken chains is one of the two most often preformed jobs in the shop. (Sizing rings is the other)...
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An Interview with Leila Tai

An Interview with Leila Tai

In this article, renowned enamelist Leila Tai discusses her many motivations and inspirations as well as her creative process in...
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Platinum Consideration Factors

Jurgen J Maerz of the Platinum Guild International USA outlines factors to consider when adding platinum to your line of...
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The Origins of Fold Forming

In 1979 and 80 I went to study at the Fachhochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim West Germany at the suggestion...
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How to Step-Roll Wire

One requires a taper on the end of the wire to grip it with when placed through a drawplate for...
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A Crowning Achievement Part 2

A Crowning Achievement Part 2

In the last issue we looked at making a basic basket crown. In this article we will fabricate a more...
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The Representation in Contemporary Metals

The Representation in Contemporary Metals

My recollection of the first piece of metalwork I owned is of a pin consisting of two poodles connected by...
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The Work of Gary Noffke

The Work of Gary Noffke

Preparation for writing this piece began, I guess, when I was six or seven years old. At that age, my...
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Gorham Masterpieces in Metal Exhibition

Gorham Masterpieces in Metal Exhibition

Gorham Company was 45 years old when its 2,000-ounce "Century Vase" celebrating the nation's centennial won great acclaim at the...
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Knife Making Techniques for Jewelry Design

Knife Making Techniques for Jewelry Design

My dad was in the Navy during World War II and was among the personnel who entered Japan shortly after...
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The Cutting Edge of Blade Design

The Cutting Edge of Blade Design

To Bryant Clark design is foremost, and the designs for his hand-crafted knives are created from his knowledge of history...
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The Goldsmiths: Studio & Shop

The Goldsmiths: Studio & Shop

Reviving the virtually dead enameling technique plique-à-jour, which means "the light of day as seen through a membrane," has been...
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Knifemaker’s Art Exhibition

Knifemaker’s Art Exhibition

This article is a review on the Knifemaker's Art Exhibition held at the Edward H. Merrin Gallery of Antiquities, New...
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Susan Kingsley: Enlightened Embranglements

Susan Kingsley: Enlightened Embranglements

Susan Kingsley's work has involved a long, determined struggle with the role of a woman artist in the field of...
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How to Use the Conduction Soldering Technique

The soldering process, used extensively in all aspects of jewelry manufacturing and repair, joins two or more pieces of metal...
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How to Make a Bas Relief Bowl

How to Make a Bas Relief Bowl

This article, written by Dottie Wood, shares photos and step by step procedure on how to make a bas relief...
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Process Oriented Metal Education

Art school is in some ways a difficult place to learn to be a metalsmith. Traditionally, it took industry from...
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The Contemporary American Custom Goldsmithing

The Contemporary American Custom Goldsmithing

About five years ago, Robert Fairbank, John Reynolds and I created a "living entity" called Goldsmiths 3 in Concord, Massachusetts....
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Fads and Fallacies: Pocket Knives

Fads and Fallacies: Pocket Knives

The term fashion does not immediately bring to mind knives. But wait! The 1895 Montgomery Ward & Co. catalog offered...
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25th Sterling Design Competition

25th Sterling Design Competition

This article features the 25th Sterling Design Competition held at Lever House, New York City on May 30-June 19, 1984....
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Technical Briefs: All About Metals

Technical Briefs: All About Metals

This entry marks the beginning of a new, regular column in Metalsmith. It will deal with technical concerns of interest...
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Common FAQs for Metals Suppliers

Behold the metals supplier, lord of all things shiny. He fills your crucible with casting grain and makes sure youre...
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RING BRACELET – Part 2

RING BRACELET – Part 2

Nice Chain maille bracelet. Making the clasp - finishing...
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Producing Semi-Fabricated Platinum Products

It is also vital to know the basic forms of semi-fabricated Platinum product that are generally available and how to...
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RING BRACELET – Part 1

RING BRACELET – Part 1

Nice Chain maille bracelet
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1984 SNAG Platinum Jewelry Design Competition

1984 SNAG Platinum Jewelry Design Competition

For a jewelry design editor such as myself judging a competition such as the second annual "SNAG Platinum Jewelry Design...
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Hand Engraved Buck Pocket Knife

Hand Engraved Buck Pocket Knife

Almost freehand scrollwork.
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Weaving wire

Weaving wire

basic wire weaving
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Art and Technics: Finishing

Art and Technics: Finishing

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine "Art and Technics" talking about techniques in craftsmanship...
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Metalsmith ’86 Spring: Book Reviews

This article showcases book reviews for "The Art of the Jeweler", "Bead Setting Diamonds, with Pavé Applications", "Custom Knifemaking: 10...
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Chain Link Necklace with Jewelry Arts Institute

Chain Link Necklace with Jewelry Arts Institute

www.jewelryarts.com How to make a chain link necklace. video courtesy of about.com
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Double link chain

Double link chain

Luis Moreno demonstrates how to fabricate a double link chain...,http://www.google.com/profiles/Luis.F.Moreno.Silversmith
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Easy Bracelet – III

Easy Bracelet – III

DEVELOPMENT WORK...
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